Speed climbing at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Speed climbing at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup | |
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Location |
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Dates | 28 May – 3 July 2021 |
Champions | |
Men | ![]() |
Women | ![]() |
Speed climbing competitions at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup are being held at two locations, from 28 May to 3 July 2021. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had originally scheduled six speed climbing events concluding on 31 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of events in Xiamen and Wujiang in China, Jakarta in Indonesia and Seoul in South Korea.[1][2][3][4][5]
The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.[6]
Overview
Date | Location | Venue | Men | Women |
---|---|---|---|---|
May, 28–30 | ![]() |
Industry SLC[7] | ![]() |
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July, 1–3 | ![]() |
Place du Rendez-Vous[8] | ![]() |
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OVERALL WINNERS | ![]() |
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NATIONAL TEAM | ![]() |
Records broken
Event | Round | Climber | Location | Time | Date |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Men's speed | Qualification | ![]() |
Salt Lake City, USA | 5.258[9] | May 28, 2021 |
Final | ![]() |
Salt Lake City, USA | 5.208[10] | May 28, 2021 |
Competition format
The speed wall is standardized: 15 meters high, 5 degrees overhanging, same route.
In the qualifications, athletes race in both lane a and lane b; only their best times are recorded and used for seeding. Sixteen fastest athletes in the qualifications progress into the finals where athletes are seeded and raced head-to-head against.each other.
Overall ranking
The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are four competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted.
Men
The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2021:[11]
Rank | Name | Points | Salt Lake City | Villars |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ![]() |
200 | 1. 100 | 1. 100 |
2 | ![]() |
145 | 2. 80 | 3. 65 |
3 | ![]() |
96 | 3. 65 | 11. 31 |
4 | ![]() |
81 | 4. 55 | 13. 26 |
5 | ![]() |
80 | — | 2. 80 |
6 | ![]() |
59 | 7. 43 | 18. 16 |
7 | ![]() |
55 | — | 4. 55 |
8 | ![]() |
51 | 5. 51 | — |
8 | ![]() |
51 | — | 5. 51 |
10 | ![]() |
50 | 8. 40 | 21. 10 |
Women
The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2021:[12]
Rank | Name | Points | Salt Lake City | Villars |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ![]() |
131 | 2. 80 | 5. 51 |
2 | ![]() |
120 | 4. 55 | 3. 65 |
3 | ![]() |
100* | 1. 100 | — |
3 | ![]() |
100* | — | 1. 100 |
5 | ![]() |
94* | 5. 51 | 7. 43 |
5 | ![]() |
94* | 6. 47 | 6. 47 |
7 | ![]() |
85 | — | 2. 80 |
8 | ![]() |
74 | 8. 40 | 10. 34 |
9 | ![]() |
65 | 3. 65 | — |
10 | ![]() |
55 | — | 4. 55 |
* = Joint place with another athlete
National Teams
The results of the ten most successful countries of the Speed World Cup 2021:[13]
Country names as used by the IFSC
Rank | Nation | Points | Salt Lake City | Villars |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ![]() |
503 | 4. 180.0 | 2. 323.0 |
2 | ![]() |
447 | 2. 267.0 | 3. 180.0 |
3 | ![]() |
396.8 | 1. 276.0 | 5. 120.8 |
4 | ![]() |
384 | — | 1. 384.0 |
5 | ![]() |
340 | 3. 207.0 | 4. 133.0 |
6 | ![]() |
140.55 | 5. 139.55 | 15. 1.0 |
7 | ![]() |
132.5 | 7. 75.0 | 7. 57.5 |
8 | ![]() |
130 | 6. 95.0 | 10. 35.0 |
9 | ![]() |
101.8 | 8. 63.9 | 9. 37.9 |
10 | ![]() |
85.85 | 9. 63.0 | 12. 22.85 |
Salt Lake City, United States (May, 28–30)
Men
38 men attended the event.[14]
Kiromal Katibin of Indonesia set a world record time of 5.258 seconds in qualifying, a record that was broken the same day by fellow Indonesian, Veddriq Leonardo, who hit the buzzer at 5.20 in the final run against Katibin. Poland's Marcin Dzieński placed third after beating American John Brosler in the small final.[15][16]
Rank | Name | Qual. | 1/8 | 1/4 | 1/2 | Small | Final |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
![]() |
![]() |
5.37 | 5.55 | 5.42 | 5.38 | 5.20 | |
![]() |
![]() |
5.25 | 5.49 | wildcard | 5.35 | fall | |
![]() |
![]() |
5.90 | 6.22 | 5.88 | 5.77 | 5.84 | |
4 | ![]() |
5.60 | 5.72 | 5.98 | 5.76 | 6.89 | |
5 | ![]() |
6.19 | 7.82 | 6.13 | |||
6 | ![]() |
6.253 | 6.18 | 6.23 | |||
7 | ![]() |
6.14 | 5.94 | FS | |||
8 | ![]() |
6.17 | 6.50 | fall | |||
9 | ![]() |
6.09 | 5.95 | ||||
10 | ![]() |
6.36 | 6.12 | ||||
11 | ![]() |
6.28 | 6.79 | ||||
12 | ![]() |
6.255 | 7.79 | ||||
13 | ![]() |
6.06 | 7.88 | ||||
14 | ![]() |
6.02 | 8.28 | ||||
15 | ![]() |
6.03 | 8.73 | ||||
16 | ![]() |
6.32 | 11.09 |
Women
24 women attended the event.[17]
Poland's Aleksandra Mirosław took the win after winning a tight race against the United States' Emma Hunt who took second place. A non-speed-specialist Japan's Miho Nonaka placed third after beating Poland's Patrycja Chudziak in the small final.[15][16]
Rank | Name | Qual. | 1/8 | 1/4 | 1/2 | Small | Final |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
![]() |
![]() |
7.20 | 7.83 | 7.59 | 7.40 | 7.38 | |
![]() |
![]() |
7.52 | 7.61 | 7.62 | 7.77 | 7.53 | |
![]() |
![]() |
8.58 | 8.50 | 8.20 | 8.36 | 8.95 | |
4 | ![]() |
8.28 | 8.16 | 8.18 | 8.37 | 10.40 | |
5 | ![]() |
8.49 | 8.16 | 7.78 | |||
6 | ![]() |
7.68 | 9.59 | 8.48 | |||
7 | ![]() |
8.54 | 9.00 | 8.63 | |||
8 | ![]() |
7.94 | 7.87 | 10.58 | |||
9 | ![]() |
8.33 | 8.52 | ||||
10 | ![]() |
8.72 | 8.70 | ||||
11 | ![]() |
8.68 | 8.95 | ||||
12 | ![]() |
9.36 | 9.55 | ||||
13 | ![]() |
9.12 | 10.20 | ||||
14 | ![]() |
8.43 | 10.82 | ||||
15 | ![]() |
8.36 | 14.47 | ||||
16 | ![]() |
8.77 | 14.94 |
Villars, Switzerland (July, 1–3)
Men
51 men attended the event.[18]
Indonesia's Veddriq Leonardo claimed his second consecutive win after beating Russia's Dmitrii Timofeev in the final race. Leonardo's teammate, Kiromal Katibin placed third after beating Russia's Vladislav Deulin in the small final.[19]
Rank | Name | Qual. | 1/8 | 1/4 | 1/2 | Small | Final |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
![]() |
![]() |
5.52 | 5.50 | 5.42 | 5.35 | 5.32 | |
![]() |
![]() |
5.622 | 6.05 | 5.64 | 5.48 | 7.35 | |
![]() |
![]() |
5.48 | 5.35 | 5.31 | 6.07 | 5.30 | |
4 | ![]() |
5.756 | 5.67 | 5.62 | 5.51 | 5.38 | |
5 | ![]() |
5.734 | 6.78 | 5.68 | |||
6 | ![]() |
5.67 | 6.07 | 5.72 | |||
7 | ![]() |
5.724 | 5.60 | 6.13 | |||
8 | ![]() |
5.728 | 5.53 | 7.73 | |||
9 | ![]() |
5.726 | 5.72 | ||||
10 | ![]() |
5.77 | 5.78 | ||||
11 | ![]() |
5.71 | 5.80 | ||||
12 | ![]() |
5.54 | 5.81 | ||||
13 | ![]() |
5.757 | 6.11 | ||||
14 | ![]() |
5.739 | 6.36 | ||||
15 | ![]() |
5.625 | 7.91 | ||||
16 | ![]() |
5.729 | 9.90 |
Women
40 women attended the event.[20]
Russia's Ekaterina Barashchuk took her first World Cup gold medal after outracing her teammate and current world record holder Iuliia Kaplina in the final race. Poland's Patrycja Chudziak took third place after beating Indonesia's Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi in the small final.[19]
Rank | Name | Qual. | 1/8 | 1/4 | 1/2 | Small | Final |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
![]() |
![]() |
7.61 | 7.59 | 7.28 | 7.30 | 7.30 | |
![]() |
![]() |
7.01 | 7.31 | 7.17 | 7.17 | 8.39 | |
![]() |
![]() |
7.56 | 7.60 | 7.42 | 7.50 | 7.73 | |
4 | ![]() |
7.34 | 7.33 | 7.02 | fall | 10.38 | |
5 | ![]() |
7.72 | 7.43 | 7.19 | |||
6 | ![]() |
7.28 | 8.29 | 7.47 | |||
7 | ![]() |
7.49 | wildcard | 7.52 | |||
8 | ![]() |
7.24 | 7.19 | fall | |||
9 | ![]() |
7.84 | 7.61 | ||||
10 | ![]() |
8.00 | 7.68 | ||||
11 | ![]() |
7.912 | 7.87 | ||||
12 | ![]() |
8.14 | 8.00 | ||||
13 | ![]() |
7.916 | 8.01 | ||||
14 | ![]() |
8.07 | 8.57 | ||||
15 | ![]() |
8.17 | 10.47 | ||||
16 | ![]() |
7.918 | FS |
References
- ^ "Sport climbing World Cup events in China cancelled because of COVID-19". www.insidethegames.biz. 20 August 2021. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
{{cite web}}
: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ "IFSC WORLD CUPS IN CHINA CANCELLED". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
- ^ "IFSC SPEED WORLD CUP IN JAKARTA CANCELLED". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-12.
- ^ "IFSC Speed World Cup in Jakarta cancelled due to COVID-19". www.insidethegames.biz. 11 September 2021. Retrieved 2021-09-12.
{{cite web}}
: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ "IFSC World Cup in Seoul cancelled less than two weeks before event". www.insidethegames.biz. 20 September 2021. Retrieved 2021-09-25.
{{cite web}}
: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ "Results". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-03.
- ^ "2021 Salt Lake City info sheet".
{{cite web}}
: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ "2021 Villars info sheet".
{{cite web}}
: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ International Federation of Sport Climbing (2021-05-28), Kiromal Katibin DESTROYS the men's Speed world record!, retrieved 2021-05-29
- ^ International Federation of Sport Climbing (2021-05-28), IFSC Boulder World Cup Salt Lake City 2021 - Men's and women's Speed finals, retrieved 2021-05-29
- ^ "IFSC Speed World Cup 2021 Men OVERALL Ranking".
- ^ "IFSC Speed World Cup 2021 Women OVERALL Ranking".
- ^ "IFSC SPEED WORLD CUP 2021: NATIONAL TEAM RANKING". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-07-04.
{{cite web}}
: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (B,S) - SALT LAKE CITY (USA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT SPEED MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
{{cite web}}
: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ a b "Veddriq Leonardo sets new world record in Salt Lake City Speed World Cup". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2021-09-07.
- ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Boulder and Speed World Cup Salt Lake City 2021 (Rnd 3): Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-09.
- ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (B,S) - SALT LAKE CITY (USA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT SPEED WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
{{cite web}}
: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L,S) - VILLARS (SUI) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT SPEED MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
{{cite web}}
: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Lead and Speed World Cup Villars 2021". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-07.
- ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L,S) - VILLARS (SUI) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT SPEED WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
{{cite web}}
: CS1 maint: url-status (link)